A four-week expedition into Upper Dolpo, crossing the Numa La and Baga La passes to reach Shey Gompa, Saldang, and the last places where the trans-Himalayan salt trade is still part of daily life.
Our definitive Upper Dolpo itinerary, built around Nepal's full elevation range in one continuous line: two days in Kathmandu, then a flight to Nepalgunj and on to Juphal, Dolpa's only airstrip, before continuing on foot into one of the last places in Nepal where the trans-Himalayan salt trade, Bon and Buddhist coexistence, and genuine snow leopard habitat are still part of daily life rather than history.
From Juphal, the trek proper begins up the Thuli Bheri and Suli Gad valleys, past Shey Phoksundo Lake, over the Kang La pass to Shey Gompa, and on to the salt-route villages of Saldang and Namdo before crossing the Numa La and Baga La passes into the Tarap valley. Four disciplinary threads run through the trip: anthropology, conservation biology, religious studies, and geology.
Unlike a standard trekking itinerary, several days are held specifically for genuine encounters rather than sightseeing: a ranger-led conservation session at Shey Phoksundo National Park, a homestay night hosted by a Dolpo-pa family in Saldang, and a fireside salt-trade oral history evening with people who still remember the caravan trade before the border closed.
Sleep altitude each night — the acclimatization pattern at a glance.
No scheduled dates for this trek yet — we run it on the dates that suit you. If you’re planning a trek for a group of friends or family, talk to our specialist and we’ll build it around you.
Talk to our specialistThe route
10 stops · 3 flights · 9 trekking sections
23 days on the trail, mapped one by one — no need to expand anything.
Day of 23
Arrival in Kathmandu
Overnight: Kathmandu
Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel. A welcome meeting and orientation follow, with dinner in the evening.
Kathmandu — Craft as Living Heritage
Overnight: Kathmandu
A thangka painting briefing with a local artist and a hands-on pottery-making session, followed by a trip briefing on the four disciplinary threads ahead: anthropology, conservation biology, religious studies, and geology.
Fly to Nepalgunj
Kathmandu → Nepalgunj (flight)
Overnight: Nepalgunj
Fly to Nepalgunj, the staging point for the flight into Dolpa.
Fly to Juphal, Trek to Dunai
Nepalgunj → Juphal (flight) → Dunai (trek)
Overnight: Dunai
A weather-dependent flight to Juphal, Dolpa's only airstrip (a buffer day is held in reserve later in the trip for exactly this kind of delay), then trek to Dunai, Dolpa's district headquarters.
Into the Suli Gad Valley
Dunai → Chhepka
Overnight: Chhepka
Trek along the Thuli Bheri and into the forested Suli Gad valley to Chhepka.
Toward Shey Phoksundo National Park
Chhepka → Renje
Overnight: Renje
Trek deeper into Shey Phoksundo National Park to Renje.
Ringmo & Phoksundo Lake
Renje → Ringmo
Overnight: Ringmo
Geology thread: the formation of Nepal's deepest lake, and the legend layered onto it locally. Trek to Ringmo village, arriving at the shore of Phoksundo Lake, with an evening orientation on the lake's geology and legend.
Phoksundo — Conservation Field Day
Overnight: Ringmo
Conservation biology thread: a ranger-led session on snow leopard and blue sheep research, and the realities of managing a national park around inhabited villages. An acclimatization day at Phoksundo Lake, with short hikes to lake viewpoints.
Up the Phoksundo Khola
Ringmo → Necha
Overnight: Necha
Trek north along the Phoksundo Khola valley toward the approach to Kang La.
Approach to Kang La
Necha → high camp
Overnight: High camp
Trek to a high camp below Kang La, positioning for the pass crossing.
Crossing Kang La
High camp → Kang La (approx. 5,360 m) → Shey Gompa
Overnight: Shey Gompa
The traditional threshold into Dolpo's inner region: cross Kang La, the high pass leading into the Shey Gompa basin, then descend to Shey Gompa.
Shey Gompa — Crystal Mountain
Overnight: Shey Gompa
Religious studies thread: Bon and Buddhist coexistence at one of Dolpo's most sacred sites, in conversation with resident monks. A full day at Shey Gompa, the "Crystal Monastery," beneath Crystal Mountain (Riwo Drukta), with a session with resident monks on the monastery's history.
A Second Day at Shey
Overnight: Shey Gompa
Time held deliberately, not filled — a free day at Shey Gompa for rest, reflection, or further informal conversation with the resident monastic community.
Descent to Saldang
Shey Gompa → Saldang
Overnight: Saldang
Trek down into the Nagon Khola valley to Saldang, Dolpo's largest village.
Saldang — On the Salt Road
Overnight: Saldang (homestay)
Anthropology thread: a direct conversation with the generation that still remembers the caravan trade before the border closed. A community day in Saldang, one of the oldest continuously inhabited villages on the historic salt route, with a fireside session with village elders on the Tibet–Nepal salt caravan trade and a homestay night with a Dolpo-pa family.
Namdo
Saldang → Namdo
Overnight: Namdo
Trek to Namdo, another salt-route village, positioning for the Numa La and Baga La crossings.
Approach to Numa La
Namdo → high camp
Overnight: High camp
Trek toward the base of Numa La.
Crossing Numa La & Baga La
High camp → Numa La (approx. 5,190 m) → Baga La (approx. 5,070 m)
Overnight: Toward the Tarap valley
Geology thread: two passes in one day, and the tectonic and glacial features that shaped them. Cross Numa La, then Baga La, and descend toward the Tarap valley.
Do Tarap
→ Do Tarap
Overnight: Do Tarap
Continue the descent into the Tarap valley.
Tarap Valley — Community & Monasteries
Overnight: Do Tarap
Religious studies and community engagement: Tarap's own Bon and Buddhist institutions, and a valley community distinct from Saldang's. Visits to Ribo Bhumpa (Bon monastery) and Chaiba Gompa, with community time among Tarap valley residents.
Return Toward Dunai
Do Tarap → Khani Gaon
Overnight: Khani Gaon
Trek south out of the Tarap valley, retracing toward Dunai.
Dunai to Juphal, Fly to Kathmandu
Khani Gaon → Dunai → Juphal → Nepalgunj → Kathmandu (flight)
Overnight: Kathmandu
A buffer day held in reserve for weather delays across this leg: the final trek day to Juphal, then a flight to Nepalgunj connecting to Kathmandu, closing with a reflection session and farewell dinner.
Departure
After breakfast, depart to the airport for the flight home.
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